Thursday, 14 August 2014

Roncevalles to Zubirri

I should know that after a long climb, the downhill will not be good. A Spanish woman described the descent as criminal and I agree. The trail conditions are like nothing I have ever seen. The north shore mountains may have boulders in the paths, fallen branches and roots but they are nothing like this. I don't know how these mountains were formed but they seem to be folded with plenty of metamorphic rock sticking out at right angles to the road surface so that the rock bites your feet! This descent lasted for hours.

The day started pleasantly with gentle trails leaving Roncevalles. About 3 km out of town we stopped on a small town for coffee and Maggie realized that she really did not want to carry her back pack and that she hadn't made any arrangements for transportation. A lovely Italian perigrino named Michele helped her contact a company to transport her bag to Zubirri. The cafe owners' dog kept us amused while we waited. The dog was a Husky and he knew he wasn't allowed in the cafe, so he would jump up on a chair and stand on the window sill watching the world go by.

After a few hours walking through farm land we started down hill on the worst trail surface possible. We were slower going down hill than going up the Pyrenees!
37 700 steps later we walked into Zubirri and picked the first hostel which turned out to be very nice.

The owner spoke virtually no English but I did find out that his name is Agustin and that he has two ninas and one niƱo. He asked me if I was going to wash my clothes by hand and when I said Si, he took everything and proceeded to wash it in the machine. Thank you!! I think he appreciated that I tried to communicate with him.

I found out that in Spain, it isn't Wi Fi, it's Wiffy! The alberge had lovely bathrooms, showers and kitchen. Our room had two bunk beds and our room mate was Sarah from Australia. We met her in Orisson with a huge back pack and no place to stay. We convinced her to send her pack ahead. Our other alberge buddies were Jon, Lillianne and Bente from Norway. We went for dinner with them at a small place at the other end of the village and found out that Jon and Lillianne are Lutheran ministers with adjoining parishes and that Bente works with challenged seniors whose mothers had rubella while pregnant.

Just a note: everyone who walked into Zubirri looked as though they were at least 100!

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Location:Zubirri

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