We walked to Cezur Menor past sunflower fields and then climbed more than 300 metres to Alto del Perdon where they have the Camino statues are located. We had fun taking pictures of each other in front of the most appropriate statue. Then we descended another 400 metres down a treacherous hill covered in rocks and pebbles into Utrega. The rest of the journey was through fields and, as usual, the last few kilometres were the worst. 24.1 km and 37 000 steps later we arrived at the Alberge Jakue in Puente la Reina. The alberge was lovely and it had a masseuse. He worked on my sore legs and taped up my knees. The tape lasted for another 4 days. He told Mary and Maggie not to carry their packs any more. I didn't want to be left out so we sent our packs ahead every day. Even though I thought I had packed efficiently, my pack was too heavy.
The food at the alberge was great. For the price of a regular pilgrim's menu we had a lovely buffet with wine or beer.
The alberges are generally quite nice and reasonably priced but they do not provide bedding, towels or toiletries. I purchased a sleep sack made of silk and cotton from REI in Bellingham. The MEC ones were all cotton, too heavy and too expensive. Most of the alberges had disposable pillow cases but if they didn't, I used my towel to cover the pillow. August is warm so we didn't need sleeping bags.
Mary said that she noticed a few changes since her last trip: toilet paper is plentiful, some private alberges take reservations, and most have the mattress covers. The reservations are great because you don't have to race in order to get a bed in the refuge.
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Location:Puente la Reina
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